At the Zocalo

It was not when I first saw the Zocalo, reputed to be the largest Spanish colonial square in the world, that I had the head-smacking thought. Nor was it when I ate breakfast on the rooftop of the Holiday Inn, with its awesome view of the Cathedral, the government palace and City Hall. Nor was it when a guide led me and a colleague on a tour of the little-seen wonders beneath the Cathedral. No, it was only later, when we hiked up a narrow, winding stone staircase, and stood on the roof of the Cathedral, and walked from one end of the vault to the other, surveying all of Mexico City and the Zocalo far below, that I had the forehead-whapping revelation: I should have brought a camera.

I always forget crucial things when I travel, usually money, a passport, a camera, or pants. I once went to Canada and forgot to bring pants OR a passport (because it's hard to take Canada seriously as a separate nation).

The problem with not having a camera when you go someplace neat is that it's almost like not going at all. You have no proof. You have no photographic evidence that you're a hot-dang-diggety-dog traveler who goes cool places. You might as well have stayed home, paging through a travel magazine on your back porch. Save you so much hassle that way.

The camera never comes close to capturing what anything really looks like. Amateurs always take middle-distance shots at high noon when the lighting is at its worst. We then force our friends to look at these dreary snapshots, and they become bored to the brink of coma after about snapshot number 3. But when you go on the roof of a cathedral built in 1573 you have a moral obligation to bring a camera. It was beyond cool. Also photographs would help me to remember what I saw, since my brain is so badly damaged by things that happened at Woodstock and so on. Indeed, it's possible I've been on the roof of the Cathedral in Mexico City before. Probably nobody will ever know for sure. Someday not only will I have forgotten about this latest trip, but my entire existence will have been forgotten by everyone else.

And yet the Cathedral, at least, will still be there.

By Joel Achenbach  |  June 8, 2005; 3:23 PM ET
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Comments

Mexico City sounds cool, please send pictures.

Joel, you were at Woodstock - 1969 or that other ersatz affair in the early-90s?

Posted by: Patrick | June 8, 2005 3:30 PM | Report abuse

Joel was too young to be at "Woodstock"--that's just a euphemism that means he goes to Gene W's house and inhales sometimes.

Posted by: Nother Fan | June 8, 2005 3:45 PM | Report abuse

can see it coming now from famed writer:

"I never inhaled"

Posted by: Slick | June 8, 2005 3:53 PM | Report abuse

I am going to delete that Woodstock line if you people insist on taking this very respectable blog into the gutter.

Posted by: Achenbach | June 8, 2005 4:09 PM | Report abuse

"it's hard to take Canada seriously as a separate nation"

-It's sometimes hard to believe Americans are a sentient species.

Posted by: Canuck | June 8, 2005 4:18 PM | Report abuse

He said "head-smacking," hehhhhhhhh.

Posted by: Beavis | June 8, 2005 4:42 PM | Report abuse

A thousand words are worth a picture.

Posted by: whoa | June 8, 2005 4:43 PM | Report abuse

The problem with taking a camera to historic sites is that you can easily spend 85% of your time looking for groovy camera angles and the perfect lighting, and unless you really, really enjoy photography you forget to enjoy yourself and be appropriately awestruck by the cathedral or whatever. So my advice is to forget about the camera and enjoy your vacation unfettered by these concerns.

Posted by: Andrew | June 8, 2005 4:44 PM | Report abuse

Canuck: Sense of humor, please! I'm quite sure all Joel meant was that Canada (English-speaking Canada anyway) is so similar culturally that he doesn't think of going there as traveling "abroad" ...

Posted by: dbvt | June 8, 2005 4:44 PM | Report abuse

Maybe you, like the cathedral, will still be around too. Do you ever marvel at the fact that we are alive and conscious at this exact point in time -- in the present -- rather than having experienced consciousness at any other time in the very long history of the world? What are the odds of that? Are we just lucky? (Sure, this sounds like a crazy question; people who lived at any other time throughout the ages could have asked themselves the same thing, because where else can a person experience consciousness, except in the present?) But is it possible that we have always been conscious and always will be? That when our bodies expire, our consciousness lives on? That what we think of as our lives are not just short blips, but episodes in an eternal experience of consciousness?
Now, what was that you were saying about Woodstock?

Posted by: Dreamer | June 8, 2005 4:50 PM | Report abuse

No, I really meant that I can't take it seriously as a separate country. To me it's like the state just north of North Dakota. I realize this is pathological, and that's why I refer to it as my Canada Problem. Years of therapy haven't been able to cure it. As for not bringing a camera, I probably should mention that the person with me was a professional photographer and he took a picture of me beneath the Cathedral, so there's that. In fact I would recommend that people travel with their own photographer, in the same way that people travel with a nanny. Except maybe the photographer thinks I was traveling with HIM, and was, you know, taking his notes for him. And by the way, i WAS at Woodstock, and at Altamonte, and at the Concert for Bangladesh and at Live Aid.

Posted by: Achenbach | June 8, 2005 4:53 PM | Report abuse

Um, they do sell those disposable cameras in Mexico, right?

Posted by: Head-slapper | June 8, 2005 5:07 PM | Report abuse

Maybe you take pictures like I do, finger or thumb obscuring the lens (I had my hair cut shorter so no more long hair in the frame)--pictures of the sky and skid marks in parking lots--but some are actually of people I know and not too bad scenic shots. I know I am not a great photographer but I like my own "view" of the world and enjoy my candid photos.

Posted by: Jacks | June 8, 2005 5:17 PM | Report abuse

In the arches of the Zocalo you should be able to get a disposable camera, I think even some street vendors have them.
If you'd wish a better view you can go to the observation deck of Torre Latinoamericana or Torre Mayor, just at a side of Chapultepec park.

(And since you are in Coyoacán do not miss the Siberia ice creams in the Coyoacán plaza)

Posted by: MxWPFan | June 8, 2005 5:22 PM | Report abuse

I stand corrected, Joel. Anyway, don't feel too bad about your lack of photos: I was in Mexico City a week ago, and I didn't KNOW you could climb up to the roof of the Cathedral. Oops.

Posted by: dbvt | June 8, 2005 6:05 PM | Report abuse

"It's sometimes hard to believe Americans are a sentient species"

indeed... how'd you think we got to be Americans, by being nice !??!!??!

Posted by: Joe Schmoe | June 8, 2005 6:16 PM | Report abuse

So you were that one third-grader who got to go to Woodstock.

Posted by: O.G. | June 8, 2005 8:50 PM | Report abuse

Buy postcards. They are not as personal as photos but they do the trick.

Posted by: fdg31 | June 8, 2005 10:17 PM | Report abuse

My ATM card worked in Mexico City but not in Toronto. So maybe it's Mexico that's not a separate country.

Posted by: Virginia | June 9, 2005 2:15 AM | Report abuse

Re: your "Canada Problem."

Don't worry about it ... the entire population of Canada has had the same problem for decades and years of therapy haven't helped them either.

Posted by: Pumpable Meat | June 9, 2005 9:58 AM | Report abuse

I don't think Joel is as worried about the camera, per se, as about his existence. (or am I slow on the uptake here and the point is really about how cameras-cum-solipsism are irrelevant to the things they are aimed at?)

Not to worry Joel ... Long after the world has forgotten Twain and Aristotle, they'll remember the Achenblog.

Posted by: Kane | June 9, 2005 10:13 AM | Report abuse

you could always just photoshop yourself into pictures of woodstock, altamonte, and at the concert for bangladesh and at live aid or even Mexico City Cathedrals. i leave it to you whether you decide to include a picture of you with or without pants.

Posted by: raleigh nc | June 9, 2005 4:16 PM | Report abuse

See, this brings us back to Joel's comment about "taking this very respectable blog into the gutter." If we wanted a discussion of pantsless wonders, we'd go to Weingarten's chat.

Posted by: Achenfan | June 9, 2005 4:34 PM | Report abuse

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