Life and Death in Coyoacan
Last night I flew into Mexico and was quickly reminded that my Spanish is the equivalent of Shaq trying to make a free throw. Sometimes it works, but it's never pretty.
When you step off the airplane you notice a cacaphony of signs. Too many signs. I was tempted to summon an airport official and say, "This whole aesthetic is too busy." People in other countries like it when Americans tell them what they should do.
Mexico City has the odd quality of being in the mountains, more than 7,000 feet above sea level, yet utterly flat for miles and miles. I think it's an old lake bed. Everything is so horizontal. In the taxi you pass a lot of one-story concrete-block structures that look as though they might be body shops. It's a town where no one needs to tell you to buckle up in the back of the cab. I remembered that I once rented a car in Mexico City and drove to Tepoztlan, a charming village in the mountains, Mexico's version of Sedona. It was not a relaxing drive.
The taxi took me to Coyoacan, "place of the coyotes," a colonial village subsumed by the metropolis of Mexico City. We passed a satellite truck and countless television crews outside a walled compound. Just down the street I reached the home of my friends Mary Jordan and Kevin Sullivan, who run The Post's bureau. Their street, Avenida Francisco Sosa, is believed to be the oldest paved street in North America. It is lined by heavy stone walls, behind which rise Spanish colonial homes topped by bell towers. It's breathtakingly charming. But it was gloomy last night, for the camera crews were on hand to report on the death of a flamboyant Mexican diplomat and intellectual, Adolfo Aguilar Zinser. Aguilar Zinser died instantly in a car crash yesterday as he was returning from his country home in Tepoztlan, on that treacherous mountain road. He crossed the dividing line and hit a bus.
Kevin and Mary, as I write, have just walked down the street to pay their final respects. Death can come quickly in Mexico. The funeral service is tonight.
By
Joel Achenbach
|
June 6, 2005; 9:03 AM ET
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Posted by: 8 hrs from Beltway | June 6, 2005 11:04 AM | Report abuse
My reccomendations are do not drink water from the pipes. Buy water bottles and do not carry jewerly or anything that look expensive. Besides that have fun and enjoy the scenary
Posted by: Fdg31 | June 6, 2005 12:41 PM | Report abuse
There are Taco Bells in D.F. - but you'd be better off eating the local food (besides, the local tacos are way tastier than anything you'd find at an international chain).
Fdg31 is right about the water, but I would also caution: be sure the bottle you buy has an unbroken safety seal on it. Less scrupulous vendors have been known to refill bottles with tap water - and *no one* drinks the local tap water if they afford to have water delivered (that obvoiusly leaves out a lot of people, though).
Posted by: Anonymous | June 6, 2005 12:53 PM | Report abuse
People traveling to D.C. probably receive these kinds of travel tips as well.
Posted by: Achenfan | June 6, 2005 1:12 PM | Report abuse
La agua is no importante. La muerte de Zinser es muy significado porque: Zinser citicized the United States' unilateral actions in Iraq. Zinser was ousted from his post as Mexco's ambassador to the United Nations in December 2003 after a diplomatic flap, touched off by his comments--that the United States treats Mexico like its "back yard"--just a month earlier.
How do residents of Mexico feel about the Iraqi war today? (Will you be reporting on this, Joel?) Were there others in Fox's administration who were as outspoken as Zinser was at the time? Were there others in the Fox government who lost their jobs because of their beliefs and dissent, like Zinser?
Our government certainly disapproved of Zinser and his outspokenness. Was Fox under pressure from our administration, to the point that Fox would betray his long-standing relationship with his friend Zinser? Did Fox intentionally embarrass Zinser by removing him from his diplomatic post simply to improve relations with the United States and George W. Bush? Que lastima!
Posted by: El Gato | June 6, 2005 1:25 PM | Report abuse
DC travel tip:
Don't drink the water and beware of men congregating in parking garages at 2 am.
Posted by: Doc | June 6, 2005 1:27 PM | Report abuse
are we sure the Zinser accident was an "accident"?
Posted by: Fidel Castro | June 6, 2005 1:37 PM | Report abuse
This entry brings to mind the opening paragraph of Tom Shroder's book:
"It is late, nearly lightless. Smoke from a million dung fires hangs in the headlights as the Maruti microbus bangs along the narrow, cratered hardpack that passes for a paved road in the Indian outback. We are still hours away from the hotel, an island of First World comfort in this simmering Third World ocean, and the possibility that we will never get there looms as large as the oncoming truck, absurdly overloaded and undermaintained, shuddering violently as it hurtles toward us dead in the middle of the road. Using every inch of the rutted dirt shoulder, we barely escape. Through the thin tin of the Maruti, I can feel the truck vibrate, smell death in the exhaust pumping from its tailpipe. In escape, there is no relief. We bounce back onto the road's pitted surface and immediately overtake a wooden cart lumbering to the heavy gait of yoked oxen with immense horns. Our driver leans on his horn as he swerves around the cart into a blind curve that I can only pray is not occupied by a bus loaded to the dented metal ceiling with humans and farm animals. I try not to think about the lack of seat belts or the mere half inch of glass and metal that separates the front seat from whatever we plow into -- or the Lonely Planet article I read that said fatal accidents were forty times more likely on Indian roads than on American highways. . . ."
Posted by: Tom fan | June 6, 2005 1:41 PM | Report abuse
Um, when you hit a bus head-on, death comes pretty quickly anywhere. Would it be good to check average life expectancy in the country and in the DF before starting on the Mexico/death meme?
Posted by: Jim M | June 6, 2005 3:01 PM | Report abuse
JimM-
Achenblog is the NYT of blogs (in that incestuous media way)....why let facts get in the way of a good story or anecdote.
Posted by: MattH | June 6, 2005 3:29 PM | Report abuse
Zinser was essentially a politician, not a Diplomat, before going to the UN he was Fox's National Security Advisor, was a Senator and a Congressman and worked with all three major parties once in his lifetime. Yet he will be remembered for being the reason (along with mid-term elections at that time) that Mexico did not support the U.S on the war.
His death is a tragedy, good luck on Francisco Sosa #440 where already many of his former friends that got distant because of politics (including Fox and former Foreign Secretary Castañeda) have paid their respects.
(I agree on the tap water, but Taco Bell? I've lived in this city for almost twenty years and I'm yet to see one of those)
Posted by: MxWPFan | June 6, 2005 4:21 PM | Report abuse
Relations between Washington and Mexico City soured precipitously on the eve of the war last February and March. In one of the few moments of truth in his three-year reign, Mexican president Vicente Fox earned Bush's enmity by doing the right thing and instructing his representative on the United Nations Security Council, Adolfo Aguilar Zinser, to vote down the U.S.-Great Britain-sponsored aggression against Iraq. Knowing that it would fail to carry, the White House eventually withdrew its war resolution and unilaterally marched into Iraq with the Brits and the Spanish tagging along at their side, puppy dog-style. Communication between Bush and Fox got very frosty very fast.
Before the resolution was withdrawn, however, British intelligence was asked by its U.S. counterparts to provide "technical" assistance in "observing" the delegations of Security Council members that had not yet announced their intentions, according to testimony offered in a London courtroom by Katherine Gun, a British operative, who leaked the information to the press and was subsequently drummed out of a job. Both Aguilar Zinser and Juan Manuel Valdez, head of Chile's Security Council delegation, have confirmed that their office telephones were bugged, a violation of United Nations protocols.
In an interview with the British Observer last month, Aguilar Zinser revealed how a last-ditch peace effort by six uncommitted Security Council members on the eve of the aggression had been bugged. The morning after the meeting, when the group met with John Negroponte, the U.S. Ambassador to the U.N., the plan was already on his desk. The espionage "wrecked the last chance for peace," Aguilar Zinser laments.
Notwithstanding, when Aguilar Zinser asked Mexico's neophyte Secretary of Foreign Relations, Luis Ernesto Derbez, who had just replaced the mercurial Jorge Castañeda as foreign minister, to send him a team of security agents to sweep the Mexican U.N. offices for eavesdropping devices, he was told to forget about it. Derbez apparently wanted no new problems with the gringos to contaminate his administration of Mexico's foreign policy. Late last month, Derbez was asked at a press conference about the alleged spying and responded, "Our position is simple, we do not have our own verification. We have no way of saying, 'I found this little microphone.'"
Moreover, "If there is no trial, surely there will therefore be no verification of whether there was spying or not," he said. (Gun had been charged with violating Britain's Official Secrets Act. Prosecutors dropped the case, offering no explanation.)
Aguilar Zinser himself was fired after telling a Mexico City university audience that the United States continues to treat Mexico as if it were its backyard. Zinser's removal had been repeatedly called for by U.S. Secretary of State Colin Powell and his firing was taken as a clear signal that Fox was once again snuggling up to Bush.
Indeed, a letter timidly inquiring about the spy caper was not tendered to either Washington or London until this past December, nine months after the bugging occurred. Both the United States and the United Kingdom said they would not respond to the inquiry because "we never respond to questions about intelligence matters."
John Ross, reporter
The Texas Observer
Posted by: Los Gatos | June 6, 2005 4:43 PM | Report abuse
Zinser had it wrong. The US is the backyard of Mexico thanks to unendless illegal immigration.
Posted by: Rapscallion | June 6, 2005 4:58 PM | Report abuse
Um...
If it's "unendless", that means it has an end, doesn't it?
And if you're referring to Mexico as the "backyard", what does that make Canada? There are a lot of Canadians here without proper papers, too. Or maybe it something else you have a problem with...
Posted by: Anonymous | June 6, 2005 5:08 PM | Report abuse
help, what's "D.T." stand for (in reference to Mexico City, probably something real obvious, but it's Monday, forgive me, please) ??
Posted by: dunno | June 6, 2005 5:14 PM | Report abuse
unendless - yes, guess the end will come when the end comes, you know, WW III.
Yeah man, let's crack down on all the illegal Canucks too, nothing personal!
Posted by: Rapscallion | June 6, 2005 5:17 PM | Report abuse
D.F. stands for Distrito Federal. (D.T. stands for Deep Throat.)
Posted by: Anonymous | June 6, 2005 5:26 PM | Report abuse
Hey, thanks for the interesting insights on Mexico City and Aguilar Zinser etc. FYI, Zinser was a diplomat, intellectual, academic, and a man of great energy, conscience and conviction, unafraid to speak his mind, and in Mexico and all other countries including the US that sometimes upsets a few apple carts. (Manzana carts). The home down the street appears to have thrown open the gates to any and all, many bringing flowers. Whatever the differences that Aguilar Z. had with Fox, Fox came by this morning. In other news, it's blazingly hot, the hottest week in a year in Mexico according to my very well placed sources.
Posted by: Achenbach | June 6, 2005 6:48 PM | Report abuse
Oh, one other thing: There's a starbucks just 3 blocks away. MY KIND OF TOWN.
Posted by: Achenbach | June 6, 2005 6:49 PM | Report abuse
"People in other countries like it when Americans tell them what they should do."
"Oh, one other thing: There's a starbucks just 3 blocks away. MY KIND OF TOWN"
--El Americano feo
Esta tan aturdido que no da pie con bola. Por meterte a redentor te ha pasado todo esto. Prefiero ir al grano y dejat de hablar bobieras.
Posted by: Los Gatos | June 6, 2005 7:30 PM | Report abuse
Los Gatos: Once again, alguna vez, it's humor, people. Satire. Irony.
Speaking of humor, here's Dave Barry in the (Miami)Herald today, in an article about the Heat's loss last night:
"Watching Shaq try to make a free throw is like watching the president try to complete a sentence. You're thinking: 'Come on! You can do it! Noooooooo . . . '"
Here's the link
http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald/living/columnists/dave_barry/11831844.htm
Posted by: Duh | June 7, 2005 7:52 AM | Report abuse
I'm sorry, "Death can come quickly in Mexico."?????? Did I walk into a Raymond Chandler novel? Did those pictures of W. Mark Felt in his spiffy G-Man pose bring back the ghosts of "Spooky Fun-time Radio Hour"?
Posted by: ANGRYMAN! | June 7, 2005 10:00 AM | Report abuse
It's nice to know that the some people still can tell when someone has been "smoked" because he voiced his conscience. Reality is that the majority of the world population either is afraid to "piss off" the MIGHTY U.S., and or just want to please it to stay on its good side. There is an understood silence when most countries don't stand against "god Bush", they KNOW that any dissent will be dealt either directly and or indirectly, legally or illegally, and no one will even have a second thought about questioning the actions. The U.S. mentality of
"we are right" doesn't leave options for contradictions. If you
are not with them YOU are against them, and sooner or later if you don't watch your back, your own people will "rub you off" to appease the fury of the new "Almighty U.S. god...Bush"
Posted by: Mauler | June 10, 2005 7:37 AM | Report abuse
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What's Mexico's take on the revelation of Deep Throat?
Also, are there any Taco Bell outlets in Mexico City?