On our radar: Thanksgiving in the food mags
Turkey. Turkey. Turkey. Turkey. Turkey. Roasted squash. Pomegranates. Pumpkin pie. Pecan pie. Local butchers. Vegan ice cream.
There you have it: The checkout-line review of the holiday season’s food magazine overdrive (or what’s on the covers of 11 monthly mags, at least).
Not satisified? Well, then, here’s a rundown of interesting bits inside them. Where the editors saw fit to trumpet the number of recipes, so did we:
In Saveur (November; turkey cover), turkey is grilled or rubbed with chili peppers and honey, or herbed and roasted without brining. The staff tested plastic pop-up turkey timers and found out the company that makes the disposable devices still sets them for doneness at 180 degrees, not 165 degrees as decreed several years ago by the USDA. We do not need any help making our turkeys drier.
In Food & Wine (November; turkey cover), chef David Chang accepts a Thanksgiving leftovers’ challenge and makes turkey cracklings from roasted skin, spring rolls from mashed potatoes, and riffs on his Ginger Scallion Sauce for turkey (a recipe we ran in early October). McLean pastry chef David Guas’s spiced upside-down apple Bundt cake graces the inside back cover. 70 recipes total.
In Bon Appetit (November; turkey cover), “Cooking Life” columnist Molly Wizenberg admits a shocker: She doesn’t care for turkey. So she offers a butternut squash and cheddar bread pudding recipe instead. Good tips from among the 68 recipes include adding clementine zest to red-eye gravy, how to reheat mashed potatoes in the microwave and step-by-step directions for turkey on the grill. Peter Reinhart’s cranberry-nut rolls and herb-cheese popovers look divine.
In Food Network (November; turkey cover), we get 12 beers to drink at Thanksgiving. Paula Deen has us drinking butter: 1/2 teaspoon’s worth floats atop each helping of her spiced cider. Ina Garten, the Barefoot Contessa, puts banana in her pumpkin mousse (for a tart). Staff recipe developer Claudia Sidoti takes on the challenges of roasting a 20-pound bird and how to carve it. And we are given five things to do with leftover cranberry sauce: whisk it into vinaigrette, spoon it over cheesecake, serve it with blue cheese and crackers, spread it on a chicken salad sandwich and stir it into champagne. Happy homemaker’s tip: Use walnut halves for individual salt and pepper cellars at the table. 138 recipes!
In Taste of Home (November; turkey cover), sage leaves are tucked under the skin of the bird (so 1987). Its “nutritious” Makeover Fancy Bean Casserole calls for Velveeta, reduced-fat-reduced-sodium condensed cream of chicken soup, reduced-fat butter, butter-flavored crackers, reduced-fat sour cream, frozen green beans and frozen corn. Hmm.
In Eating Well (December; squash cover), writer Kristin Ohlson makes the physiological case that men can handle their alcohol better than women. A handy graphic displays pluses and minuses of moderate alcohol consumption for women. Alice Waters adapts an “Art of Simple Food” recipe of hers to create a Cranberry Upside-Down Cake. The test kitchen’s fig-anise rolls look delish. 36 recipes total.
In Cook’s Illustrated (December; pomegranate cover), the Test Kitcheneers have dry-brined the bird again this year and rubbed its skin with baking powder and salt to promote browning AND draped salt pork over the top because . . . everything tastes better with bacon, or some version of it. Stuffing’s back: The turkey’s cavity is lined with cheesecloth for easier stuffing extraction.
In Southern Living (November; pumpkin pie cover), we are given 12 ways to include pecans in recipes: pecan honey butter; banana pecan smoothies (but we do not like to chew our breakfast drinks here at AWCE); stuffed into jalapenos with a garlic-herb cheese; salad (been there); spiced with chili and lime (done that); hot caramel topping for ice cream (!); in goat cheese as a finger-sandwich spread; a warm pecan vinaigrette; on top of croissant french toast; in pesto; on baked apple slices with blue cheese; used to book-end a spread of cream cheese and pimento-stuffed olives. Tips we might try include adding a layer of crushed gingersnaps on top of a pumpkin pie bottom crust and adding rosemary and cornmeal to the dough for a sweet potato pie crust. Both tips are from magazine readers. 38 recipes total.
In Cooking Light (November; pecan pie cover), turkey breast is treated to a maple-syrup brine and roasted with the skin, but served without it (well, it keeps those nutritional analysis numbers in check). Even in the whole-bird recipe, directions get to the carving part and advise: “Discard skin.” But the haricots verts get a warm bacon vinaigrette. Go figure.
In VegNews (December; vegan ice cream cone cover), at least two recipes have omnivorous appeal: Pumpkin Gnocchi With Jerusalem Artichoke Puree, and Cranberry Pear and Chestnut Stuffed Yams.
Which food mags' holiday fixings have caught your eye? What did I miss? (My colleague Jane Black has already given Gourmet its due.)
-- Bonnie Benwick
The Food Section
November 10, 2009; 12:00 PM ET
Categories: On Our Radar , Thanksgiving | Tags: Bonnie Benwick, Thanksgiving, magazines
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