Models of Color
We are sorry to report that we got all uppity and indignant at the Givenchy show this evening. We are not embarrassed to admit that before the show even started we were already in a rather irritated mood because we had to wait outside in the cold for almost 30 minutes before the house opened. It was a 5 pm show and we turned up on time - as is our nature - only to be told that the place wasn't ready for guests because, "We have a lot of lights." Whaaaa? Did somebody just tap these folks on the shoulder 10 minutes ago and say, "Hey, you know you have to put on a fashion show today?"
We get grumpy when we're cold. But since we had another 45 minutes of waiting time, we had plenty of opportunity to get over ourselves. Finally the show started and the first handful of models out of the gate were black. They were dressed in different variations on a black dress. They were wearing thick black-rimmed glasses. Some of them were carrying Givenchy handbags and luggage.
After the short parade of matching black girls, out came the other models. And that's when we got annoyed and started feeling like we were going to have to tap into some inner Malcolm X. Why can't the black models just be part of the show? Why do they always have to be part of gimmick? At Issey Miyake, for instance, they came out in tribal paint and breastplates because the collection had an African/Asian/South Pacific inspiration. (But we did not see any other models looking like they had stepped off the Discovery Channel.) Can't the black girls just wear a nice evening gown? At Givenchy, they practically looked like the porters for the "real" models.
We got so riled up, we had to go console ourselves with a little shopping. It is remarkable how much damage can be done in less than an hour. We especially enjoy shopping in Paris because the sales people have the uncanny ability to determine the right dress size with a simple up and down glance. This is convenient, of course, but it can also be a substantial blow to the ego when they utter the French equivalent of, "Child, you know you need a bigger size than that!"
We're looking forward to the Stella McCartney show tomorrow. The invitation included a rubber duck that lights up and flashes when we rub its tummy.
By Robin Givhan |
March 1, 2006; 7:13 PM ET
Paris
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Posted by: KH | March 2, 2006 12:06 PM
I'm a 26-year old military guy with no real interest in fashion, but I read everything Robin Givhan writes precisely because of pieces such as these. Much like Michael Wilbon, she's adapt at finding the nuggets of valuable observation in seemingly simple fields such as sports or fashion. Even the small, amusing stories of people interacting can tell you something. Hers is the only blog I actually read on the internet (why bother with all that amateur-hour crap?), and here's hoping a problem like this changes after having a bit of light shone on it.
Posted by: Mac in Iraq | March 2, 2006 3:12 PM
I read your blog religiously and jumped for joy when I saw the heading of your latest post. As a fashionista of color, it has long frustrated me that each show (with the exception of Baby Phat) only has 2-3 non-white models. My joy was short lived however when I read the line "We got so riled up, we had to go console ourselves with a little shopping." I'm sure the ever witty Ms. Givhan meant no disrespect by this but I found it to be quite insensitive. As a person who has been subject to contless instances of discrimination while shopping in high end stores, the LAST thing that can "console" me is shopping. In fact, often times I've found myself inconsolable. I understand that this was probably just a transition statement but I do believe it was a poor choice. I still love the blog though!
Posted by: Ayesha | March 2, 2006 5:07 PM
Agree with the military guy. (By the way, are you single?) I don't care what the subject matter is. The woman can write.
Posted by: Downtown | March 2, 2006 7:01 PM
great post, but why the wrongly tagged photo of Alexander McQueen (not the current designer for Givenchy)?
Posted by: e | March 3, 2006 10:34 AM
Ayesha - Ms. Givens is a woman of color herself, so I think she knows what it's like to shop as a person of color.
Posted by: reader | March 3, 2006 4:51 PM
I really appreciate your comments. I have never seen your site before, but you can believe I will be black. I mean back.
Posted by: Sa Netchem | March 20, 2006 2:51 PM
As a struggling model of color in Los Angeles, I was overtaken with joy when I read this post. I'm so glad that someone out there has the same thoughts as me and realizes that people of color are always left on the sidelines. Thanks!
By the way, if anyone's interested in a cool fashion site, my favorite is www.fashionways.com. They've got great footage from Fashion Week in LA if you're interested.
Posted by: chloeinLA | April 24, 2006 9:38 PM
black models aren't 'exotic ', 'junglelike' or any different than any other model, except there skin is darker. they don't have to tan, or represent the jungle to be beautiful.
Posted by: gladys bell | May 6, 2006 10:58 AM
Thanks Robin for this post. I'm a little confused by the lack of women of color- not just black, but asian american, latinas, etc- on the runways.
If the point of fashion week is to "sell" the clothes to buyers, editors, etc, it would seem that you would want to put the clothes on the people who will best "show" them for you. The jewel tone colors of seasons past and the bright, South American influenced colors of the upcoming spring season show best on women with darker skin.
Kathryn
www.thebudgetfashionista.com
Posted by: Kathryn | September 15, 2006 9:28 PM
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Finally some color (and I don't mean fabric) on the runways. What is the matter with Europe and certain high end designers in the US. Given the amount of inter-racial relationships in Europe you would think you would see more women of color (any color will do in some cases)Liya Kedebe, on of the top Black models in the world, was rarely seen in the Milan and barely seen in the US. Pat McGrath, the top make-up artist in the world, is black and I am sure she can count on one hand the women of color she preps for shows. Its getting ridiculous when every show has the same Eastern Europe models with the same vacant gaunt look in every show, given the fact they barely can walk in heels. Designers need to mix it up more and not just with one token Asian women. Oh well, maybe we should just look at the clothes instead.